An American (Library) in Paris

Truth be told, there have been instances when I’ve heard librarians bemoan the existence of computers and the World Wide Web. But just this week I’ve experienced another positive to technology. Because of a google search, I made a discovery in Paris.

The American Library in Paris is not listed in any of the typical travel guides I consulted when planning my vacation. But as a librarian and a bibliophile, I wanted to visit a library in the City of Light. Google led me to the web page of the American Library in Paris, and on a recent afternoon I walked a few blocks north of the Eiffel Tower for a visit.

The American Library in Paris is an offshoot of the 1917 Library War Service, founded by the American Library Association, in which U.S. libraries shipped some 1.5 million books to American service personnel during World War I. Alan Seeger, a celebrated poet, was killed in the war. In 1920 Seeger’s father worked to found the American Library in Paris in honor of his son, with a core of the Library War Service books becoming the start of the collection. As part of its Vision & Mission, the library provides “access in France to what is best in English-language books, periodicals and other materials…”

Now the largest English language lending library in Europe, the library has had quite a history. For example, Ernest Hemingway and Gertrude Stein were contributors to Ex Libris, the library’s monthly review. As World War II began, the library circulated books to French and British soldiers. When the French libraries closed under Nazi occupation, the American Library remained open, attracting hundreds of French patrons. In 1941 Library Director Dorothy Reeder was sent back to the United States for safety, but one of the library’s founding members, Countess Clara de Chambrun, arranged for the library to remain open. The staff secretly continued to lend to Jewish members.

When Sylvia Beach closed her famous Shakespeare and Company bookstore in 1951, she donated its circulating collection to the American Library in Paris. In 1955 the library began its English Language Library for the Blind, providing the first Braille books in English on the European continent.

Today the library has a web site, an online catalog, a reading room, a research room, a children’s room, two internet stations for customers, wireless (WiFi) access, and numerous programs for all ages. Ex Libris is still published (four times a year), along with a new online electronic newsletter called e-Libris, which is e-mailed twice a month. Copies are available from the library’s web site under “Newsletters and Reports”.

The American Library in Paris is located at 10, Rue du General Camou, and is open 10 a.m. to 7 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday.

My Last Night in Paris

Following an early afternoon touring the ancient Egyptian collection at the Louvre, the largest of its kind outside of Egypt, I treated myself to lunch in Cafe Richelieu, overlooking I. M. Pei's pyramid. Afterward I walked through the spectacular Royal Apartments of Napoleon III. Then it was time again for an art break, so I headed outdoors into the Jardin des Tuileries. There were chairs surrounding the central fountain, and I sat for over an hour watching the comings and goings of both tourists and residents. The Louvre has Wednesday evening hours, so I returned at about 7 p.m. to see a few favorites still on my list. I'd read that the evening hours would be less crowded, but this was not the case. I believe the crowd increased in size, with many Parisians visiting after work. At about 9 p.m., I said goodbye to the Louvre, serendipitously finding a seat along the fountain wall with both the Louvre pyramid and the distant Eiffel Tower in view.

J'aime Paris!

I'm in love. We've all heard that Paris is the city of love, and I've fallen head over heels for Paris. The Eiffel Tower, the Louvre, the Seine -- all have captured my heart. Here is Paris at sunset from the top of the Eiffel Tower. Isn't it beautiful!

My Birthday in Paris

Shopping at Printemps, viewing Monet's Water Lily panels at Musee de Orangerie, dining at the Julves Verne Restaurant in the Eiffel Tower. Oh la la!

An American (Library) in Paris

Just a few blocks from the Eiffel Tower is the American Library in Paris. Being a librarian and a bibliophile I, of course, have made it a priority to visit. I doubt it makes many tourist's "must see" lists. I'm writing on one of the library's two Internet stations, and luckily no one else is waiting to use the computers because it is slow going on this French keyboard! But what an adventure. I'll have photos and details to share later, when I'm typing from my laptop and don't have to keep searching for keys. For now I will leave you with the library's web site so that you may visit virtually. And yes, I am wondering if there are any job openings here. Wouldn't that be quite the gig!

Paris Jour Deux

(L) Arc de Triomphe

(R) A Renoir painting in the Musee d'Orsay

Jardin du Luxembourg

Day two began with a walk west through the Latin Quarter toward the Jardin du Luxembourg. On the way I had a few moments of quiet in St. Etienne Dumont Catholic Church. My walk continued past the Pantheon, then through the campus of the Sorbonne. The Jardin du Luxemborg was filled with French people enjoying a gorgeous autumn morning. The flowers were abundant, fragrant and beautiful. Another walk north toward the Seine, then west took me to the Musee d'Orsay, where room after room was filled with the Impressionist and Post Impressionist paintings and sculpture so well known and recognizable in the world today. I remembered playing the board game Masterpiece as a child, and having seen some of these paintings on that game's playing cards. In addition, I unexpectedly came upon the original of a painting of which my Great Grandmother Lektorich kept a small print hanging in her farm house in South Haven, Michigan. It was a shock to see the real thing and be flooded with the memories of studying that print while visiting. Never did I think of ever seeing the original. This evening a friend and I visited the Arc de Triomphe, climbing more stairs than I could count to gain a spectacular 360 degree view of Paris at night. The Arc is much bigger than I imagined. From the top, we also had a view of the Eiffel Tower lit in the night sky. We ended the evening with a walk along the Champs-Elysees, which I compare to Fifth Avenue in New York City or the Magnificent Mile in Chicago, except with the late night activity that I've only experienced in Europe. I feel strangely at home here, and even have people asking me for directions, thinking that I am French. Tre bien!

The List of 35

As I write just 25 hours remain until my Air France jet takes off for Paris. The reality has not yet sunk-in. Over the weeks since making my reservations, I've been reading books and browsing web sites to compile "A", "B", and "C" lists of what I want to do and see while in Paris. As an art lover, visiting museums is high on my "A" list, and Paris if filled to overflowing with options. My top choices are the Louvre (of course), the Musee d'Orsay, the Musee de l'Orangerie, the MuseeMarmottan Monet , and the sculpture garden at the Musee Rodin. That's a lot, but I have a plan. For example, the Louvre has about 35,000 items in eight departments on display at any one time. So I've been browsing the Louvre's web site for 35 items that I most want to see. Of course my list includes the Louvre's top three: Mona Lisa, Venus de Milo, and Winged Victory.
What would you recommend I include in my list of 35?

What Should I See in Paris?

I've been reading Paris for Dummies (2005), but today checked out guides more up-to-date. They are Access Paris: The Only Guide That Leads You Street by Street into the Heart of the City, published in 2008; and Fodor's Paris 2009. Using these books, I'm drafting a schedule of what I want to see and when during my week in the City of Lights. What would be at the top of your list?

Almost French

There are some books you read that touch your life for years to come. One of those for me is Almost French: Love and a New Life in Paris by Sarah Turnbull. Sarah was an Australian journalist who moved to Paris to marry her love, Fred. Although a gregarious person who had traveled, Sarah discovered that France is unique. In an interview with "Paris Through Expatriate Eyes," Sarah says, "I think a lot of foreigners come to France, knowing they're coming to a foreign country and naively don't expect it to be that different." For Sarah, it seems the biggest challenge relates to being a foreigner married to French person. She is not French, but because she is married to a French man, she is not a member of the expatriate community. She explains that, "I had Fred and being with a French person, sharing your life, you are thrown into the whole French culture. You can't avoid it. You're not really in an expat world. I think some foreigners would like to be more integrated but find it quite difficult. Although as you have suggested it's often easy to have pleasant, engaging spontaneous conversations with your neighbor at a café, forming friendships takes a lot of time." After many years, Sarah begins to feel Almost French. For me, Turnbull's book is an engaging and honest memoir of taking risks and living life as an adventure. My memory of it was a motivating factor in deciding that I could take myself to Paris. If Sarah Turnbull and Elizabeth Gilbert (Eat, Pray, Love) and Frances Mayes (Under the Tuscan Sun) can travel alone, then so can I.

While writing this post I discovered some interesting web sites which I link to above and highlight here.
Paris Through Expatriate Eyes
The Official Web Site of Elizabeth Gilbert
The Official Web Site of Frances Mayes

Paris: City of Lights

The DVD Paris: City of Lights, produced in 1995 by View Video, is not well shot or written, but even that could not quell my growing excitement about visiting Paris. In one hour of viewing I was reminded of Paris' history, and the great men and women whose lives have contributed to her fame. I thought of beginning a list of those who have contributed to Paris' fame, or those French names that have become recognized world-wide, but I soon realized how huge it would be. I think of Berlioz, Debussy, Delacroix, Voltaire, Hugo, Braille, Nadar, Manet, Monet, Matisse, Degas, Pissarro, Renoir, Seurat, Valadon, Marie Curie, and on. When you think of French people of note, whom do you think of and why?

By the way, I discovered a "List of French People," organized alphabetically by profession, on Wikipedia.

The Sweeet Life in Paris

On the white board outside my office, I am counting down the days to Paris. As of today, the number is 17. What's fun are the comments I receive and conversations I get into when people walk by and notice. One woman stopped to reminisce about her trip to Paris. Later she e-mailed to say, "There aren't many things I know about Paris but this fellow is going to 'set you right' about Paris. I only wish I had learned about his website before we went to Paris." Fortunately for me, I'm viewing the site before I go!

david lebovitz: living the sweet life in Paris

My new friend suggests David's book, too.

The Sweet Life in Paris: Delicious Adventures in the World's Most Glorious - and Perplexing - City

Bonjour Hello Kitty!

I like Hello Kitty. Recently one daughter said that women my age should not own anything Hello Kitty. I did own a cell phone case with this sweet character. But I lost it. Or maybe someone lost it for me? Then there appeared these Hello Kitty items with a French theme. Each time I visited a certain store, I'd browse the towels, shower curtain, trash can, bath matt, etc., featuring Mademoissele Hello Kitty and her chien. But I resisted purchasing, telling myself my money will be better spent in Paris. However, I have been telling everyone about this latest Hello Kitty find, and with the great friends that I have, I should have guessed that someone would buy me a gift. I now am the smiling owner of a Bonjour Hello Kitty bath towel. Tres bien!

Finding a Place to Stay

I don't remember who first recommended Karen Brown's books to me, but I know that when I used them to find places to stay in England and Spain, I was pleased with the results. My local library had two of Karen Brown's books for France: Karen Brown's France Hotels and Karen Brown's France B&B. Her books became my guide for finding a place to stay in Paris.

LitLinx to Paris: Join Me!

Visiting Paris has been a dream and a goal since I cannot even remember when. So when the approach of a big birthday began to trouble me, I decided it would be healthy to distract myself from the shock of it by spending the day doing something special. I decided this was the time for Paris.

Why Paris? For me it is the city with so many links to my favorite literature and art. Within the next few weeks I'll explore those links here with you, as I prepare for, travel to, and spend my week in Paris. I hope you will join me.

Above: My journal with an entry from almost a decade ago. It reads, "My dream is to visit Paris -- especially the Tour Eiffel (1,056 feet high) and the Louvre. (Remember to make dinner reservations at Tour Eiffel well in advance!)

Julie & Julia: Lives to Books to Movie

Last night I saw the movie Julie & Julia. Meryl Streep should win an academy award for her portrayal of Julia Child. The movie is based on two real life stories told in two books: My Life in France by Julia Child, and Julie & Julia: My Year of Cooking Dangerously by Julie Powell. In 2002 Powell, a Julia Child devote, set out to cook all 524 recipes in Child's Mastering the Art of French Cooking, and blog (The Julie/Julia Project) about the experience. The blog became a book, the book a movie. Seeing the movie has inspired me to read the books. (However, it has not changed my personal mantra that the best thing to make is a reservation!)

Meryl Streep was a guest on The Daily Show on August 6, reviewing her role as Julia Child. It is a must see!

Seeing the movie and reading the books compliment my own adventure, to be recorded in this blog. I will have My Week in Paris, September 11 - 17, and I'll tell my story here, beginning today. I hope you will join me.